Italian wine classification

Inside the Consorzio’s DOCG bid for Etna Bianco: Carricante’s east-face Grand Cru argument, three producers, and what ratification will (and won’t) change.

Etna’s wines have earned comparisons to Burgundy — not for their flavor, which belongs entirely to the volcano, but for the precision of a classification system that maps each lava flow to a distinct wine. An introduction to the contrada revolution.