In a Jura cellar, no one tops up the barrels. That refusal is why sommeliers worldwide are now pouring Savagnin and Vin Jaune.
By-the-Glass
The aperitivo began as a glass of aromatized wine in 1786 Turin. Most wine lists now treat the first pour as an afterthought.
The paddle arrives at the table a few minutes after the order: a narrow wooden board, three stemmed glasses arranged…
The check arrives at the end of a long table. A bottle of 2010 Barolo, opened earlier with a salute…
On a Tuesday morning in November, in the small print-out of the by-the-glass list that lives on a clipboard behind…