A bar in Sanlúcar de Barrameda in 2024, two glasses on the marble counter. The first is a fino as the modern category has been defined for a century: Palomino, dry, fortified to fifteen and a half, aged biologically under flor. The second is also a fino, but the pour is twelve and a half percent, unfortified, drawn from a Palomino vineyard on the same albariza, aged under the same yeast veil. Until 2021, the second glass could not legally be labeled as sherry. Now it can. The change reads as bureaucratic. What it actually unlocked is the shipping rights…
Author: TERROIR Editorial
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