Author: TERROIR Editorial

Every young wine region needs a founding story, and England’s is unusually good. The chalk hills of Champagne, the telling goes, dip beneath the Channel and surface again in Sussex, Hampshire, and Kent. Same rock, same latitude arithmetic once the climate shifted, same grapes. A region with that story does not have to argue it belongs. The geology argues for it. The story is not false. It is doing considerably less work than it appears to. What the Rock Actually Says Start with the part that holds. The chalk under Hampshire and Sussex is Newhaven Chalk, formed, as World of…

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The rosé shelf is a gradient. Bottles run from nearly colorless through onion skin to something close to cranberry, and the instinct is to read that spread as a quality scale with the palest at the top. It is a reasonable instinct, and it is wrong. The color in the glass records a decision made in the cellar about what the producer set out to make, and frequently about what they set out to make instead. Two Ways to Make Pink Direct press is the straightforward one. Red grapes go into the press, whole or stripped from the stems, and…

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The bottle that gets opened for the curry is usually chosen for a reason that sounds correct. Big food wants big wine. The dish is loud, so the wine should be loud enough to survive it, which in practice means something dark, warm, and 15 percent. That logic holds at the steakhouse. At the Sichuan table it is close to the worst available advice, and the reason has nothing to do with taste. It is a question of which nerve endings are firing, and what the alcohol in the glass is doing to them. The Wrong Instinct Capsaicin, the compound…

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